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Surf Tiki
Surfing History by Shannon
Despite the fact that surfing is Hawaii's most popular sport, nobody really knows its true roots. He'enalu, as the Hawaiians name surfing, was not witnessed by the Europeans until they came to Tahiti in 1767. It is obvious that surfing already existed in Polynesian tradition many years before European influence. This is visible from cave paintings that date back 3,000 years.
It is sure that the people of Tonga, Tahiti, and Samoa surfed within that period of time and it is very likely that island people throughout the South Pacific also engaged in surfing.
Surfing was more than merely a leisure activity for the ancient Hawaiians-it was an art form. The Hawaiian people feared the powerful seas and asked their gods for strength before starting to surf.
In those times, it was the chief who would surf on the best board made from the best tree. A commoner could not surf with the chief or upper class unless he was an incredibly good surfer.
It was no easy feat to control the surfboards of this time since they lacked fins. When missionaries arrived in the 1800s, they outlawed surfing and other Polynesian customs.
The number of Hawaiian surfers and surfboards was extremely limited at the end of the nineteenth century. Noticing the declining tradition, the Hawaiians fought to bring it back in Waikiki. One of the first literary mentions of surfing was in Jack London's book "A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki." At this point, North America and Australia found surfing and the tradition traveled to the new continents. Surfing was brought to California in 1908 by a Hawaiian of the name of George Freeth. In the 1950s and 60s, tiki culture and the Beach Boys brought masses of people to the surfing world. It was at this time that professional contests started to become more common. The surf culture has taken over many beach areas. Surf stores and can be found all over the world. The surfboards of today bare little resemblance to the old Hawaiian boards. The old boards were just a dense piece of wood. Today, boards are hollow with interior support structures. The hollow board from 1930 was better at floating, but was not easy to maneuver. To perfect the surfer`s control of the board, designers made surfboards with fins in the 1930s and 40s. Hawaii is a surf paradise. People around the world know that if they want to find superb surfing, they will find it in Hawaii. The most elite surfers ride the waves in Hawaii, because not only are the shores beautiful, but also it provides excellent surf conditions.
About the Author
Extreme sports fan
THE TIKI KINGS - STORY (surf music)